uses only organic/bio-dynamic produce, then pour yourself a glass or three of something nice and read my previous reviews from Feb '11, May '11, Aug '11, Oct '11, Mar '12, and Apr '12.
Amuse Bouche 1: Nýr (a fresh acidic cream cheese) and salty orange pearls of løyrom (Kalix bleak roe). The bottom layer of nýr is frozen while the top is still soft, giving a nice contrast in texture and temperature.
dusted with seaweed powder served with a warm velvety egg emulsion. Very moreish.
Norwegian langoustine in its prime before, then biting into the sweet, fresh tail will be one of those life-affirming moments. Incredible!
Drink pairing: A vibrant and acidic 2010 Riesling Kabinett from the Schätzel winery that was a good foil to the sweetness of the shellfish.
Course 2: "Ramsløk" (Ramson). The next dish was one I first tried the previous spring. However, it's been refined since then and version 2.0 improves on what was already a great dish. Here, impeccably fresh mackerel fillets from Hvaler were cured quickly in a cool sugar/vinegar/brine solution and served with pretty dollops of apple-ramson gel and ramson flowers, while a balsamic-apple vinegar & ramson oil sauce cut through the natural oiliness of the fish.
Drink Pairing: An elegant and mineralic 2011 Domaine Vacheron Sancerre.
Course 3: "Hvete" (Wheat) – warm rolls of bread made from wheat, spelt and emmer flours from Holli Mill in Spydeberg. The bread is served on squares of traditional Norwegian matpapir (food wrapping paper) with individual pots of whipped salted butter from Røros.
Drink pairing: A refreshing wheat beer from the tiny Bøgedal microbrewery in Vejle, Denmark, which had spicy notes of orange and coriander seed.
Course 4: "Brent Kveite" (Burnt Halibut) was another dish that has been tweaked since my last visit. Halibut from Tromsø had been lightly salted to firm its flesh and then singed with a blowtorch. It was served with burnt onion purée, grilled onions, wild flowers and a thin acidic aquavit sauce.
Drink pairing: A light Poiré Granit pear cider from Eric Bordelet packed with aromas of fruit and herbs.
aligot-like potato-cheese purée.
Drink pairing: A playfully named 2009 biodynamic Gamay Sans Tra-la-la from Domaine de la Garrelière was light yet spicy and full of the flavours of cherry and woodland fruits.
Drink pairing: A 2010 Grüner Veltliner from Veyder-Malberg.
ightly sautéed chicken hearts from Drangedal were served with beetroot that had been prepared in different ways – long thin raw strands, small pucks of cooked beetroot, beetroot gel and sauce. This was garnished with wispy fronds of bronze fennel, dark purple leaves of oxalis and lavender flowers.
Drink pairing: A floral 2009 André Perret Condrieu Chery from the northern Rhône made exclusively with Viognier grapes and with virtually no acidity.
irch wood is roast in the oven for a couple of hours and then left to infuse into some milk. This milk is then made into an ice cream and is served with fresh birch shoots and ground toasted birch bark. The last time I tried this dish it had a very subtle flavour that you really had to think about. It's been refined since then and is now much more focussed as a result. It's a little sweeter for one and now has a more pronounced taste of cool misty forest leaves. The addition of toasted birch bark was a masterstroke as it is full of notes of chocolate, so much so that I initially thought it was chocolate crumble!
Drink pairing: Instead of birch sap, this course is now paired with a sweetened tea made from small-leaved linden.
Drink pairing: A 2011 Schilcher Spätlese from Austrian producer Langmann. This was an unusual yet deliciously light rosé with lots of sweet raspberry aroma.
"Smør Fra Røros" (Butter from Røros) is now firmly one of my all time favourite desserts. A smooth, light butter ice cream is served with hazelnut-butter crumble, coffee molasses and brown butter caramel. My God, it's indescribably good!
Drink pairing: A sweet 1995 La Chimera Vin Santo from Tuscan wine producer Castello di Monsanto that was full of aromas of tropical fruits, raisins, and vanilla.
Tim Wendelboe, is served in the traditional kokekaffe (literally "boiled coffee") style over a gas camping stove so redolent of a trip in the mountains.
brunost-filled truffle dusted with granules of coffee.
Food: 10 / 10
Service: 10 / 10
Ambiance: 10 / 10
Tel: +47 91 99 48 05