22 July 2010

Meyer´s Deli, Copenhagen - Restaurant Review

It was the morning after the night before. Following on from our stunning dinner at Noma (see review here), Mrs. Nibbler and I decided to ease ourselves into the day with some brunch at Meyer's Deli in the smart Frederiksberg neighbourhood of Copenhagen.

Meyer's Deli is a mix of cafe, restaurant, grocery store, and take-away. It's owned by legendary Danish foodie, Claus Meyer, who also set up Noma and first opened its doors in 2005. There are also Meyer's Delis in the Magasin department store and on Kongens Have, and all three stores have been raging successes since.

Naturally, the food on offer here has a Nordic focus. In addition to providing breakfast, lunch and dinner menus, the deli has its own bakery, sells ready to eat take-away foods such as sandwiches, soups and salads, and also sells ready-to-heat food, such as casseroles and braises that you can take home and warm up. The deli also stocks a wide variety of Meyer's own label and other products such as jams, chutneys, oils, sauces, and pâtés. On weekend mornings the deli serves up brunch, which is what we are here for. For a very reasonable DKK 135 (about £15) you get yoghurt with honey toasted oats; red berry compote; grilled sausage with lovage and homemade ketchup; eggs en cocotte with cheese, spinach and bacon; salami with fennel; small pancakes with hazelnuts; cheese, rhubarb chutney and bread crisps; and a basket of bread with butter and jams. This was all washed down with a delicious frozen smoothie made with Swedish sea-buckthorn, verbena, and oats.

Everything tasted wonderfully fresh. The sausage in particular had a lovely dense, meaty texture and was almost as good as the ones in the UK (I'm on a mission to find the perfect British banger in Scandinavia, but somehow it's not something that's done very well over here). The eggs en cocotte (not pictured) was light, almost soufflé like, but maybe a touch overcooked.

I can be a real coffee bore sometimes. My cappuccino's have to be 'just so'. So it's just as well that the coffee here is great too (in fact coffee is generally fantastic across Copenhagen). Meyer's coffee beans are actually roasted in Valby by the deli's sister company. My coffee came with a nice bit of latte art, which in my experience generally characterises a well-made coffee.

I would like to come back and have dinner here one evening. The dinner menu features smaller dishes of Nordic food such as salted cod, smoked chicken, and Greenland shrimp and looks very promising. But for brunch, Meyer's Deli is a perfectly pleasant place to come for a lazy morning meal in Copenhagen. You can happily sit and linger over a double cappuccino and watch life go by on the pretty, tree-lined Gammel Kongevej.

Food:          6 / 10
Service:       6 / 10
Ambiance:   7 / 10
Gammel Kongevej 107
1850 Frederiksberg
Tel: +45 33 25 45 95

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